With its long history on the Fort Wayne restaurant scene, The Rib Room has always sort of just been there - the tasteful blue neon sign out front, the dark wood paneling, the low-ceilinged dining room, and the cozy bar area.

For a lot of people, judging by the lunchtime patrons who all seemed to know each other, The Rib Room satisfies a lot of people's craving for familiarity.

Rib Room's fare a time warp worth experiencing, but eat there a couple of times and you begin to understand why they got familiar in the first place.

Ben: A time warp you can eat. That's what I think of every time I come in here. The awning out front says The Rib Room was established in 1957, and the years seem to have stopped piling up right then and there. The decor, the food, the lighting, the mood: It all fairly screams red meat, Caddies with big fins and clear martinis with a Marlboro chaser. I kept expecting to see Joe McCarthy sitting over there in the shadows, nursing a drink or five. But if The Rib Room is a step back in time in feel and fare, it is a sure step. The ribs we split as an appetizer were meaty and tender and doused with a fine red sauce heavy on the vinegar, so no worries there. The Calypso salad I ordered was big and fresh, and the diced beets, the salad's distinctive feature, were piled on with a liberal hand. My entree - a hefty chunk of broiled salmon - came no-frills-or-frou-frou-sauces-attached. It was just a succulent, flaky piece of fish, with moist and flavorful rice pilaf. Nothin' fancy. Nothin' to raise the eyebrows or the taste buds. Just simple fare, simply and well prepared.

Julie:Hey sweets, martinis taste like lighter fluid to me, but I do love a good steak. For dinner, I chose the 12-ounce sirloin strip steak cooked rare. The Rib Room isn't much on presentation, but who cares? My steak arrived unadorned, but it was perfectly cooked, tender, juicy and flavorful. The accompanying rice pilaf was excellent - firm rice studded with tomatoes and peppers. For dessert, we split a piece of terrifically rich chocolate peanut butter pie. The name pretty much says it all.

A word about the service.
Not only was the service excellent, but our server seemed to gauge our moods during our dinner visit: tired but talkative for me, frazzled and quiet for Ben, and responded appropriately to each of us. That's a very difficult trick for anybody to accomplish when talking to strangers.
But she did. I was ready to hang around and chat all night. And after a while, so was Ben.

Ben: Something occurred to me as I took a bite from the bleu-cheese burger I ordered for lunch. I could actually taste the food. The few times we went to The Rib Room when we lived down the street were pre-smoking ordinance, and don't let the tobacco addicts and Smoke-Free-Or-Die dopes tell you those were the days. They weren't. You could have cut the cigarette smoke in The Rib Room with a machete in those days, and you walked out smelling like you'd just put out a three-alarm blaze. Veeeery elegant. Plus, you spent the rest of the evening wondering what you'd ordered, because you couldn't taste it. But on this visit, I could taste the bleu cheese burger, and I have to say this: I've had better. The meat was a good cut of burger but a bit on the bland side, and ditto the splatter of bleu cheese on it. Somebody could have tried harder on this one. Still, I'd come back again. Even if Joe McCarthy over there would have my Commie butt for it. So how about that Sputnik, anyway?

Julie: How 'bout it . . . For lunch I chose the fried cod and roasted potato lunch special. I got three pieces of gently breaded fried cod served with roasted potatoes and parsley. Very simple and well prepared. But then I tasted the Greek green beans - made with tomatoes, onions and oregano, and all that simplicity gave way. I eat green beans because they're good for me, and my kids eat them. They're OK, but not really in my vegetable pantheon. But add a little oregano and wow! Surprised by a bean. That really should happen more often.

Restaurant: The Rib Room
Address: 1235 E. State Blvd.
Phone: (260) 483-9767
Hours: Lunch Mondays through Friday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; dinners Mondays through Saturdays, 4:30 to 10 p.m.
Smoking status: Separate smoking and non-smoking
Liquor availability: Full bar
Kid-friendly status: Separate family room
Menu: Rib appetizer ($6.95); herring in wine sauce ($5.25); Calypso salad ($3.50, $5.50); dinner salad ($3.50, $5.50); 12-ounce sirloin steak ($16.95); broiled salmon ($15.95); shrimp scampi ($15.95); lamb chops ($18.95 for two, $21.95 for three); broiled scrod ($7.50); 16-ounce New York strip ($22.95); fried shrimp dinner ($15.95); rib dinner ($17.95); rib basket ($13.95); bleu cheese burger ($5.50); daily lunch special ($6.95); children's chicken strips ($4.50); children's grilled cheese ($2.25); Rib Room sandwich ($5.95); chocolate peanut butter pie ($3.25); fried cheesecake ($3.95).